In our case the enclosure was designed as tight as possible, to not allow for any movement of the Arduino inside the housing. That'll give you the inner dimension of your rectangular enclosure. Our design here shows an approach for a more temporary solution that allows to easily get into the enclosure to change and plug/unplug cables.Ĭardboard prototype First, measure the exact dimensions of your electronic components. It would be hard to extract the cable again without a resoldering or rewiring job. But they are bulky and require you to solder or wire connectors after the cables had already been inserted into the glands. The professional approach would be to insert cable glands with tightening silicon grips into the panels of the enclosure (see here or there). The tricky part is to prep them for your cables to enter/exit the enclosure. There are many waterproof enclosures out there (see here or there). Here is a closer look at what our Arduino components look like. Easy to open and attach/reattach cables.Exit of 5 cables (Power, Ethernet, 3x sensor cables).As small as possible to fit our space constraints.The enclosure is meant for environments where no water would enter from below.ĭesign criteria For a temporary outdoor installation ( Knock Stop Music developed at Pier 9) we needed housings for a couple of Arduinos connected to sensors. This enclosure is not safe for immersion in water! Nevertheless, 5 out of 6 sides of our enclosure are waterproof, while the last side is only weatherproof. Here we document how we built our own custom weatherproof* Arduino enclosure by laser-cutting acrylic and rubber.
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